Every year about two to three million Muslims leave their homes and families to travel across the globe and spend several intense days of pilgrimage. For each individual who partake in this ritual, the experience is personal and for most part, a once in a lifetime thing. I was fortunate to be able to go twice. The difference between the first and second time is amazingly stark. Modernity and the catering to the more affluent pilgrims a seeming priority to the keepers of the Kaaba.
Today marks the end of yet another Hajj season. For the past several days, I had pulled out the photo album, mulling over memories, laughing out loud at some of the funnier memories, giving lightness to the sanctity of ritual. Many have written about Hajj...I chose ONLY certain impressions which I highlight here.
Typical garb for the male pilgrim, two pieces of white cloth draped across their bodies and open-toed sandals.
Looming skyscrapers dominate the sacred sites...a sharp contrast between the modern and the ancient.
Catering and welcoming to Western travelers, many amenities surround and tantalize travelers, from shopping malls to fast foods -- even something for the die-hard Starbucks coffee drinkers. Scoped out a more private, intimate location, a hotel with its own Starbucks, full length window offering a view from above -- the Prophet's Mosque in Medinah...a perfect spot to people watch.
Muslims only chance to eat halal fast food...loaded up with burgers and fried chicken...reward for the physically demanding and strenuous schedule of the pilgrimage. Yummy!!!
Folding gigantic umbrellas lining the expanse of the mosque, affording shade to those who choose to be outside during prayers in the heat of the day, conjuring up images of robotic aliens invading...Once opened, they look like graceful mushrooms exploding upwards.
Ahh, the power of the English language...I had several instances of "losted" pilgrims...mostly elderly folks who somehow strayed away from their group and would patiently sit outside a storefront, not understanding a word of Arabic or wandering around aimlessly...
Not everyone can afford the comfort of an air-conditioned tent with 6-inch foams for beds...how far removed from pilgrimages of olden days.
The tent city of Mina, rows upon rows of white topped canvas stretching miles; one can easily lose one's way and literally be wandering around for hours.
Escalators everywhere. Some pilgrims have never even such monstrosity...scenes of elderly paralyzed by fear, unable to step on to the moving staircase.
A few days in Jeddah. A glimpse of what the rhythm of life usually is like away from the frenzied intensity of millions of pilgrims convened in one spot.
View of Medinah from the hotel room window.
The local boys in Mina who made sure the hajjis (pilgrims) had continuous supply of black tea, milk and sugar.
Cellphones...I noticed almost everyone had them. Big business at Hajj time it seems...capitalizing on travelers that need to get in touch with their loved ones back home...I was completely aghast that people were even preoccupied with sending text messages, conversing mindlessly while going around the Kaaba, the black enshrouded structure that is the holiest of Islamic sites... the invasion of technology.
Cause to reflect and take in the sights...no better camera than the mind's eye.
Interesting post. I have been wondering about this issue,so thanks for posting.
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Alhamdullilah! Interesting to see the developing changes over the years. I hear now that instead of buses they have something like BART that transports the millions of pilgrims from one location to another. Also noticed that there are hotels being built along the route of the Jamrat in Mina.
ReplyDeleteHighly doubt that pilgrims from poorer countries will be able to afford all the luxuries...the notion of comfort far removes the idea of patience and sacrifice, the main purpose of going in the first place.